Ingredient Glossary.
Scientists shouldn't be the only ones able to decipher the label on a cosmetics bottle. Our Ingredient Glossary is a comprehensive collection of clinically proven ingredients that are used in medically lead skincare brands today. All of which are carefully chosen and assessed for safety and efficacy through scientific publishings, recognised for their synergistic approach to treating skin.
A
Indication: Pigmentation
Key Benefits: Repair sun damage, regulate skin tone
ATP is an amino acid rich complex with an energy source that combats the effects of UV-induced skin damage. It's known to regulate melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation.TIP: Use in combination with Arbutin, B-White & Kojic Acid to effectively target and treat hyperpigmentation.
Indication: Sensitive Skin
Key Benefits: Soothe & Hydrate
Aloe vera is a cactus-like plant that grows in desert regions around the world. It's leaves produce a gel that is rich in vitamins A, C, E, & B12. Ideal for sensitive skin ~ Aloe's anti-inflammatory properties supports a variety of skin conditions to soothe, protect and hydrate the skin. Including;
Acne: Reduce inflammation and bacteria caused by active breakouts
Rosacea: Calms irritation and hydrates the skin to rebuild it’s natural barrier function
Sun Damage: Aids the skin healing process to accelerate repair
Indication: Pigmentation
Key Benefits: Brighten, even skin-tone, target deep pigmentation
Arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone. It is believed to be one of the best alternatives to HQ as it provides the skin-lightening effect of pharmaceutical grade intervention without some of the risks. Able to block tyrosinase (the enzyme that forms melanin) ~ Arbutin inhibits the process that makes pigment in the skin. This helps to luminise the complexion and balance out an uneven skin tone.
Indication: Dry Skin
Key Benefits: Hydrate & Smooth (without leaving a greasy feel)
Derived from seeds of the fruits found in argan trees of Morocco, Argan Oil mimics the sebum your skin naturally produces. It helps lock in moisture without leaving a greasy feel and is also high in antioxidants, including Vitamin E, which decreases the appearance of lines and restores the skin's natural hyrolipidic barrier.
Indication: Damaged Skin
Key Benefits: Repair skin, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial
Arnica naturally occurs from the rare arnica Montana wildflower which grows in mountainous regions of Europe. Used in a variety of clinical applications, it increases circulation by stimulating white blood cell activity, thereby decreasing the amount of healing time, reducing inflammation and encouraging dermal repair.
Indication: Acne
Key Benefits: Exfoliate, unclog pores, reduce P.Acne bacteria
With three major modes of action, azelaic acid is ideal for blemish-prone skin. Firstly, it is able to stop the growth of P. acnes, the blemish-causing bacteria which exacerbates imperfections. On top of this, it can normalise the skin-shedding cycle. This helps to stop the plugging of a pore which can lead to blemishes. Finally, azelaic acid is a potent anti-inflammatory which reduces the redness associated with sore and inflamed blemishes.
B
Indication: Oily Skin
Key Benefits: Target excess oil, reduce sebum, control shine
Often described as the healing clay, bentonite is able to absorb oil and impurities from the skin and pores. This helps to reduce shine and congestion to leave the skin soothed and refreshed. Further enriched with antibacterial properties, bentonite helps to minimise blemish-causing bacteria for a clearer complexion.
Indication: Sensitive, Oil-prone Skin
Key Benefits: Repair & Protect
Naturally occuring in the bran of oats, beta-glucan enhances the skin’s ability to repair itself by strengthening collagen. Providing immediate comfort to inflamed skin, the reparative ingredient protects your complexion from the damaging effects of UV rays by boosting the body’s natural defence mechanisms.
Indication: Pigmentation
Key Benefits: Hydration, anti-oxidant protection
A water soluble marine plant extract derived from Crambe maritima that helps to stimulate ceramide and hyaluronic acid synthesis. Blue sea kale is a powerful antioxidant and therefore has the ability to protect against environmental stress on the skin, such as UV or pollution. It also protects against free radical damage therefore preventing photoaging, and instead ~ helping to stimulate the production of collagen.
Indication: Pigmentation
Key Benefits: Brighten skin-tone, even pigmentation, antioxidant protection
A liposome-encapsulated peptide that evens out skin tone and decreases the appearance of hyperpigmentation. B-White works by inhibiting the production of melanin and pigmentation producing cells, resulting in brightening and lightening of the skin.
TIP: The ingredient can be found in it's active form, along side Niacinamide (B3) & Emblica within EvenTone Targeted Treatment Serum.
C
Indication: Tired Eyes
Key Benefits: Constricts blood vessels, reduces puffiness, targets dark circles
Not just an ingredient in your morning coffee, caffeine is ideal for reducing the appearance of puffiness and darkness under the eyes. Able to shrink the blood vessels underneath the eye, it diminishes dark circles while firming and lifting the entire eye area. Caffeine works in a similar way on redness-prone skin; it constrains the capillaries that enhance redness while reducing inflammation and soothing irritation.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Moisture retention, strengthen skin, healthy function, daily protection
Naturally occurring in the bran of oats, beta-glucan enhances the skin’s ability to repair itself by strengthening collagen. Providing immediate comfort to inflamed skin, the reparative ingredient protects your complexion from the damaging effects of UV rays by boosting the body’s natural defence mechanisms.
Indication: Damaged Skin & Post-Treatment Repair
Key Benefits: Wound healing, DNA repair
A peptide with high affinity for copper that supports dermal wound healing and rehabilitation. Studies have shown that copper-dependent enzymes help firm, smooth, and soften the skin quicker than most other anti-aging skin care products. In addition, copper peptides have been shown to remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and scar tissue.
E
Indication: All Skin Types / Age Prevention
Key Benefits: Skin purification, biomimetic shield, pollution protection
A sustainable purified polysaccharide from a unique sustainable ecosystem in the French Polynesia, Exo-P forms a biomimetic shield on the surface of the skin to protect against pollution and smog. The powerful ingredient also purifies dull and devitalized skin while preventing multiple factors that cause premature ageing.
G
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Skin defence, antioxidant peptide, recycles vitamin A + C
A peptide that is naturally present in the body’s defensive system, glutathione is a key component in the body’s antioxidant recycling system. In combination with Vitamin C and E, glutathione also helps to regenerate the power of other antioxidants so they can continue to protect the skin from free radical attack.
TIP: Look out for products that also contain anti-ageing peptides such as Martixyl & Sodium Hyaluronate (HA) ~ It's a trio like no other!
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Exfoliation, skin cell renewal, improves skin texture
With the smallest particle size of all the AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), glycolic acid is able to effectively penetrate multiple layers of the skin. It works to breakdown bonds between skin cells so they are easily exfoliated away to reveal fresher, newer skin cells beneath. This not only helps to stop pore blockages which can form blemishes, but also leaves the skin’s surface smooth and soft.
TIP: Gentle exfoliation with glycolic acid a few times a week helps to encourage cell turnover, which eventually leads to healthier, more youthful-looking skin.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Antioxidant peptide, recycles vitamin A + C
Glycerin is present in the natural moisturising factors of our skin, which provide essential protection and hydration. An effective humectant, this ingredient is able to draw water to itself from the lower layers of the skin and the atmosphere. This keeps the skin hydrated, supple and soft.
TIP: Next time you shop for your moisturiser ~ Keep an eye out for this ingredient!
H
Indication: Sensitive / Damaged Skin
Key Benefits: Anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-irritant, anti-fungal
Hinokitiol is a superpower ingredient that has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-fungal and anti-melanogenic properties. Best of all, hinokitiol is as gentle as it is powerful. Along with soothing and calming properties, it is also an excellent anti-aging ingredient ~ quenching free radicals from UV rays and pollution to limit the skin damage these elements can cause.
TIP: Hinokitiol also targets a variety of skin conditions including severe inflammatory responses seen in high grades of rosacea and acne.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Targeted hydration, healthy complexion, anti-ageing, ideal for ALL skin-types
Hyaluronic Acid is one of the major components of our natural extracellular matrix (the framework our skin sits on). This is important for maintaining a firm and supple complexion. With a unique ability to attract and retain more than 1,000 times its own weight in water, hyaluronic acid can draw moisture from the surrounding atmosphere and lower skin layers to the top levels of the epidermis.
The smallest hyaluronic acid molecules are able to penetrate deep into the skin, drawing moisture up from the lower layers of the dermis. This leaves the complexion both nourished and supple.
K
Indication: Oil-Prone
Key Benefits: Absorbs oil / dirt / toxins, exfoliating properties
Otherwise known as china clay, natural kaolin absorbs impurities and dirt from the skin to clear congestion. This clay is ideal for deep cleansing and drawing out debris from the complexion. It 's surprisingly colourful in nature, without containing any artificial colours / pigments. Exceptionally gentle, kaolin is suitable for even the most sensitive of skins.
Indication: Uneven Skin-Tone / Pigmentation
Main Benefits: Brightens skin, prevents melanin release, targets deep pigmentation
Naturally found in wild mushrooms, kojic acid is able to block tyrosinase, the enzyme that forms melanin pigment in the skin. Tyrosinase works by converting the amino acid tyrosine into melanin. Kojic acid blocks this process by sitting in the active site of tyrosinase, leaving no space for amino acid, tyrosine. Widely used in Asia for skin brightening, kojic acid is thought to be one of the most effective luminising agents on the market alongside oxyresveratrol.
L
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Gentle but effective exfoliation, increases cellular turnover
Naturally found in milk, lactic acid is an AHA which breaks down the bonds between skin cells to help exfoliation. This allows dead skin cells to be lightly buffed away; revealing new, fresh skin beneath. Also extremely nourishing, lactic acid increases the natural lipids in the skin’s barrier to help the complexion hold onto water for soft, supple skin.
TIP: Lactic Acid is used in a variety of professional treatments AND clinical homecare pathways to treat a variety of patients regardless of concern.
Indication: Pigmentation
Main Benefits: Natural skin brightener, evens surface pigmentation
Derived from the roots of Glycyrrhiz glabra plant, liquorice extract is native to Europe and parts of Asia. Naturally able to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme which forms melanin, liquorice extract helps to brighten up the complexion and target hyperpigmentation.
FACT: The geishas of Japan were rumoured to use liquorice extracts to maintain their ethereal, even complexions. Containing powerful antioxidants, liquorice extract helps to shield the skin from free radical damage while promoting a radiant glow.
Indication: All Skin Types
Main Benefits: Brighter complexion, gentle exfoliation, smoother skin
Caviar lime extract, naturally rich in AHA, that gently improves skin exfoliation for a smoother, brighter and more even toned complexion. It gently improves skin exfoliation with an innovative process through TRPV3. The activation of this enzyme triggers cellular turnover in a way that's much more tolerated by most skin types, resulting in a gentle but effective exfoliation.
Indication: All Skin Types
Main Benefits: Collagen production, age prevention, antioxidant protection
The ONLY bioavailable form of vitamin C for the skin, L-ascorbic Acid is a powerful antioxidant that protects cells from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and pollution. Vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also brightens and evens out skin tone.
FACT: Because L-Ascorbic Acid is also the only water-soluble form of Vitamin C, EverActive C&E (Containing 15% L-A) is also indicated for oil prone, acneic skin types.
M
Indication: Oily SKin
Key Benefits: Exfoliation, unclog pores, reduce sebum
An alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with the power of beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Naturally occuring in almonds, mandelic acid is both oil and water soluble, meaning it can penetrate oily pores while working on the upper layers of the skin. In each case, it breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells so they can be easily exfoliated away; decongesting pores and refreshing the upper skin surface.
TIP: With the largest particle size of the hydroxy acids, mandelic acid is ideal for sensitive skin as it does not penetrate as deeply as glycolic acid.
Indication: All Skin Types - Age Prevention
Main Benefits: Target signs of ageing, collagen production
Matrixyl 3000 is one of the most widely accredited peptides for anti ageing today! Although nothing new to the cosmeceutical world, its inclusion in more and more anti-aging products from the dermatologists office to the high street. Developed in the 90's Matrixyl is a lipid formula which helps active ingredients to absorb deeper into the skin, delivering their benefits at the source of the problem and ensuring that it keeps working for many hours after you have applied it.
Indication: All Skin Types - Age Prevention
Main Benefits: Target signs of ageing, collagen synthesis, improves elasticity, clinically tested
NEW Formula: Derived from a peptide naturally found in collagen and laminins, MATRIXYL™ Synthe'6™ is a tripeptide that strengthens the skin and improves elasticity, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It works by stimulating the synthesis of six major constituents of the skin, including collagen I, III and IV, hyaluronic acid, fibronectin and laminin-5.
FACT: This developed formula is clinically proven to reduce wrinkle depth within 2 weeks of use.
Click here to read the clinical paper
N
Indication: Acne / Oil-prone / Sensitive Skin
Key Benefits: Targeted hydration (great for oily skin / acne-rosacea), anti-inflammatory, healthy complexion
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is one of the most potent anti-inflammatories in skincare. Ideal for treating blemishes, it can suppress the skin’s inflammatory response to calm red and sore imperfections. Supporting the production of ceramides that are present in the natural moisturising factor of the skin, the molecule forms a protective barrier to stop pathogens entering and preventing water loss. Niacinamide can even speed up cellular turnover and stimulate collagen production for a healthy, youthful-looking complexion.
O
Indication: Acne
Key Benefits: Targets all grades of acne, works synergistically with Salicylic Acid, oil control, reduce pore size
Oligopeptide-10 is a short bioactive peptide consisting of fifteen naturally occurring amino acids that provides anti-microbial activity p-acne-bacterium. In addition, it neutralises pro-inflammatory bacterial components, reduces redness and effectively calms even the most sensitive skin types.
TIP: This peptide complex works synergistically with salicylic acid to improve the appearance of acne.
P
Indication: Rosacea
Key Benefits: Relieves redness, calms irritation, reduces inflammation
Redyless, also known as 'Piperonyl Glucose', is a biosynthesized ingredient that prevents flushing in response to heat, cold and food-related stresses. It also visibly reduces persistent redness by reinforcing blood vessel structure. Produced by an enzymatic transfer reaction, the molecular mode of action allows the skin to effect both temporary flushes and persistent redness.
R
Indication: Oil Prone
Key Benefits: Matte complexion, reduce pore size & appearance, smooth skin
Native to Europe, Africa and Asia, red clover is often used as an effective herbal remedy for inflamed skin. The red-purple flower is packed to the brim with vitamins and nutrients to nourish the complexion and is especially useful for treating enlarged pores with its three major modes of action.
1. Blocks the enzyme that creates sebum; preventing bacteria & blemishes from emerging.
2. The extract increases skin cell renewal which stops dead skin cells from stretching out pores.
3. RCE can gently contract the pores; visually reducing their appearance on the face.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Protection, reduce sensitivity
Derived either from grape seeds or the Japanese knotweed plant, this antioxidant protects the skin from free radical damage related to the sun and irritation. Applied daily, resveratrol helps protect skin's surface, interrupts and helps rebuff negative environmental influences, and brightens a tired-looking complexion. It also has significant skin-calming properties that may help minimize the look of redness.
TIP: Look for resveratrol in moisturisers and eye creams.
Indication: Professional Treatment
Key Benefits: Deep dermal exfoliant, enforces keratolytic activity
Resorcinol is used as an antiseptic and disinfectant in topical pharmaceutical products and professional chemical peeling agents in the treatment of skin concerns such as Acne, Pigmentation, Ageing etc. The molecular mode of action stimulates keratolytic activity and effectively increases cellular turnover to stimulate dermal regeneration.
PRO TIP: The Jessner peel is typically a medium peel which removes skin cells from the top and middle layers of the dermis.
Indication: All Skin Types - PM Ingredient
Key Benefits: Collagen production, skin rejuvenation, clinically proven & recognised
The gold standard in anti-ageing skincare, retinol (or Vitamin A) is highly regarded by dermatologists and doctors as the BEST ingredient for younger-looking skin. Retinoic Acid stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and fibronectin ~ while speeding up cell turnover and renewal. TIP: AlumierMD retinol serums use Time Release Technology, which slowly releases the retinol into the skin overnight to minimise irritation.
Effectively Targets: Anti-AgeingAcne/ Oil Prone SkinPigmentation
S
Indication: Acne / Oil Prone
Key Benefits: Effectively targets & treats acne, reduces P.Acne bacteria, tightens pores, exfoliates dead skin cells
A BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that is globally considered the top treatment for blemish prevention. It softens and dissolves keratin to penetrate deep into pores and break down clogged skin cells while reducing sebum production. This not only helps to diminish formed blemishes, but also prevents their appearance in the future.
FACT: SA is also in the aspirin family ~ It is able to reduce the inflammation of red and sore blemishes to help speed up the healing process. TIP: The maximum concentration of salicylic acid available for use without a prescription is 2% and is ONLY available through clinical skincare brands.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Anti-inflammatory, soothe skin
Sea Whip is derived from a renewable marine organism, an environmentally friendly resource in the Caribbean Sea. It can be used on all skin types, and is especially effective on sensitive or redness prone complexions, due to the effective anti-inflammatory and skin soothing properties. The extract actively interrupts the inflammation process to significantly reduce the level of inflammatory response triggered, and effectively prevent further irritation.
Indication: Dry Skin
Key Benefits: Deep hydration, moisture barrier, softer skin
Shea butter is derived from the seeds of the African Shea Tree, native to the West Savannah region. 100% natural, the ingredient has been used for many years as a natural moisturiser. A powerful emollient made up of fatty acids, shea butter effortlessly infuses into the skin to leave the complexion soft and silky. It is also rich in Vitamin E and micronutrients, helping to protect skin from free radical damage that has been accumulated during contact with the external world.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Antioxidant protection, luminous skin, anti-ageing
Extracted from the Kakadu plum (also known as the world’s richest source of vitamin C) ~ Superox-C acts as a strong antioxidant that firms and increases skin luminosity, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It helps protect the skin against free radical-induced ageing, nourishes surface texture, and improves skin tone evenness to leave you with a more youthful, radiant complexion.
Indication: Hyper-pigmentation
Key Benefits: Lighter skin, antioxidant protection, targets melanin production
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (also known as Symwhite), is a powerful brightening ingredient found ONLY in cosmeceutical skincare products. Derived from scotch pine bark, it was developed to help address skin discoloration and uneven skin tone. Symwhite provides antioxidant protection against the oxidative stress of free-radicals that remain present in the environment. As a stand-alone ingredient it is 10x more effective than Kojic Acid at lightening the skin and renown for it's powerful pigmentation targeting properties.
T
Indication: Acne
Key Benefits: Holistic healing for acne-prone skin, soothes irritation, purifies skin, targets blemish-causing bacteria
Tea tree oil is steam distilled from the Australian native plant melaleuca alternifolia and has an extraordinary history of healing. Used by aboriginals for many years, the leaves of the plants carry an abundance of herbal, aromatic oils. These are antimicrobial and can target blemish-causing bacteria such as P. acnes. As we all know ~ Tea tree oil is established as an essential for a clearer complexion.
Indication: Safe Sun Protection
Key Benefits: Physical 'mineral' pollution / UVA / UVB shield, healthy and effective protection
Derived from minerals, Titanium Dioxide & Zinc Oxide provides broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Acting as a physical sunscreen, the combination of ingredients sit on top of the skin to reflect away harmful UV rays which can cause premature skin ageing. They are the ONLY molecules that in combination hold an incredibly light formulation without the requirement for chemical sun filters.
FACT: Chemical (Retail) Sunscreens are quickly absorbed in the skin and cause damaging effects the endocrine system. Move over to a mineral-based sunscreen and make safe skin protection your daily practice!
V
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Active hydration, moisture retention
Vitamin B5 helps to keep skin soft, smooth, and healthy. Deeply hydrating, it helps to keep skin quenched by absorbing moisture from the air. Vitamin B5 can also help to synthesise the lipid molecules that make up the skin’s protective barrier, which in turn helps the skin to retain moisture and stay hydrated.
Indication: All Skin Types
Key Benefits: Hydration, antioxidant protection
Essential in our bodies for cell protection, Vitamin E is an oil-soluble antioxidant that can protect the lipid parts of the cell. Renowned for its antioxidant properties ~ Helping to nourish your skin while protecting it from free-radicals and other key factors that accelerate the signs ageing.
TIP: When Vitamin E & Vitamin C are combined, they can improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, brighten a dull complexion, and strengthen skin’s defences for maximum antioxidant protection.
Indication: Rosacea
Key Benefits: Reduce redness, antioxidant protection, sensitive hydration
Essential in the body for normal blood clotting processes, Vitamin K helps to strengthen the connective tissue in veins and capillaries to help reduce the appearance of redness in the skin. This also helps to enhance the cell walls to stop the occurrence of spider-type veins.
Indication: Anti-ageing
Key Benefits: Synthesised into retinoic acid / retinoids, clinically proven & recognised
Vitamin A contains retinoids, compounds that are well known for performing several skin-friendly jobs, like:
- Minimising fine lines and wrinkles by boosting the production of the skin-smoothing protein collagen-fighting signs of UV damage like hyperpigmentation and sunspots (which can help your skin look more youthful and potentially reduce the risk for some skin cancers)
- Combating acne by sloughing away dead skin cells (helps prevent clogged pores and inflammation)
- Improving skin tone by stimulating the production of new blood vessels
- Promoting wound healing
Studies have shown that people with higher vitamin A concentrations in their skin tend to look younger, while those with lower vitamin A concentrations tend to look older.
W
Indication: Post-inflammatory Pigmentation & Scarring
Key Benefits: Synergistic mode of action, targets melanocytes, prevents future pigmentation
Shiitake Mushrooms contain the antioxidant L-Ergothioneine, which helps prevent cell breakdown and helps exfoliate the skin. Home to natural sources of kojic acid, they are used to brighten the skin, fade sunspots and acne scars.
FACT: The ingredient is also rich in vitamin D, selenium and antioxidants that protect your skin against wrinkles and discoloration caused by environmental damage.
Indication: Sensitive / Oil Prone
Key Benefits: Soothe irritation, reduce inflammation, holistic approach to healing
Witch hazel is derived from dried hamamelis virginiana leaves native to North America. The all natural ingredient contains compounds called tannins, which are organic astringents that help to shrink the appearance of pores and remove excess oil from the skin. Naturally anti-inflammatory, witch hazel is also able to bring down red and sore blemishes while soothing irritated skin.